the "Frenchie" at DBGB
The burger trend that has hit New York, and apparently the entire country, seems to be in its third or fourth wave since the db bistro burger (ground Black Angus top sirloin, filled with boned short ribs braised in red wine, foie gras, preserved black truffle, and a mirepoix of root vegetables) made its debut a few years back. With the opening of DBGB, Daniel Boulud's beer, burger and sausage restaurant, the Minetta Tavern's Black Label Burger, the Burger of the Month Club, Shake Shack opening at Citifield, etc. it is in full swing once again.Even Saveur magazine has cover story this month entitled "The Burger Bible." But this time around, these are not your average burgers. The Black Label burger at Minetta Tavern is made with a dry aged beef blend made esepcially for Minetta by Pat LaFrieda meat purveyors and costs $26. Of the three burgers at DBGB, one, named "the Frenchie" is topped with pork belly another with pulled pork, named "the Piggie." But is topping a burger with pulled pork or filling one with foie gras too much? In my opinion, yes. Maybe I'm a purist but I still think that J.G. Melon on the Upper East Side, the Burger Joint in Midtown and Dumont Burger in Williamsburg are some of the best burgers around. They are just simple. Good ingredients, prepared well. Nothing fancy.(I'm a sucker for In-N-Out burgers on the west coast and usually will, and have, done anything to get one.) Of course I enjoyed both burgers at DBGB and very much loved the Black Label burger. But, I probably enjoyed the burger at Dram Shop Bar in Park Slope (two patties, sloppy and delicious) as much as any of these other burgers. Five Guys has a respectable fast food burger. I actually found myself getting impatient while waiting for my order, thinking it was a fast food place. Then I realized that each burger is made to order. Which sort of takes away that fast food quality and the burger was anything but fast foodesqe.
Recently New York magazine compiled an interesting, and mouth-watering, list of 82 of the cities burgers. Take a look. It's sure to make you really, really hungry.
What's your favorite burger?
I highly recommend you read this great story about the much regarded and hyped Black Label burger, from a blog called A Hamburger Today. Definitely check this out
http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2009/03/secrets_of_minetta_taverns_black_label_burger_1.html
Pat LaFrieda and Sons are in fact now offering the hamburger blends that they provide to many restaurants, to the public for the first time. The three different blends are the short rib blend, the brisket blend and the original hamburger blend. They are available only through Fresh Direct. In the next few weeks I want to have a burger tasting of these blends. Make all three with the same toppings and condiments and see which is the best one. Let me know if you're interested in coming.
ME! I WANT TO COME!
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